Belts, Belts and Nothing But the Belts

A sad fact now days is most drivers do not pay any attention to their automotive belts - until they break. What good is a belt anyway? They only turn the fan that draws air through the radiator, operates the water pump and power steering pump, transmits power from the crankshaft to the alternator to keep the battery charged, and takes care of running that luxury item on hot days...the air conditioner.

The automotive drive belt provides the lowest cost means of power transmission from one rotating shaft to another. No need to check these pieces of rubber periodically, right? I mean, they only have to contend with flexxing around different pulleys at thousands of rpm's, endure the harshest effects of weather, from freezing cold to broiling heat. Not to mention they are constantly exposed to water and dirt splashed up from the road, but also to the hot, oily conditions of the engine compartment.

Causes of Belt Failure

Today's belts must endure multiple stresses such as rapid acceleration (lead-foot-itis) and deceleration, extremely high temperatures and smaller diameter pulleys. (Not to mention having to contend with mice and squirrels crawling under the hood and gnawing away at the belt). And you thought you were stressed out!

The most common cause of belt failure is from heat. This results from belt slippage which is either caused by low tension, oil lubricants, or dirt on the belt and/or pulley. The heat can cause the belt to crack and break and also transfer from the rim of the pulley to the accessory drive shaft and "cook" the bearing lubricants. This result is damage far exceeding the belt replacement.

So, how often should I inspect my belt(s)?

The average life of a belt is four years. A good rule is to replace the belt(s) every four years regardless of what their condition appears to be in. Belts that operate under adverse conditions have a tendency to wear out sooner, should be checked frequently and replaced whenever there are signs of wear or deterioration. A good rule of thumb is to inspect the belt(s) monthly. This will help avoiding dangerous situations such as an overheated engine and the loss of power steering. The belt(s) should definitely be checked when performing an oil change.

What Should I Look For?

When inspecting the belt(s), make sure the engine is off and disconnect the battery if the vehicle has a thermostatically controlled electric fan. Inspect each belt in several places, gently twisting it to be able to inspect the sidewalls and the bottom. Check for these conditions: (Most apply to V-Belts)

1. Separation

2. Glazing

3. Oil / Grease Soaking

4. Tensile Break

5. Cracks

6. Uneven Ribs

5. Jagged or Streaked Sidewalls

Common Radiator Hose Problems

When was the last time that your hood to your car was opened and you checked your radiator hoses? Very recently, I hope. If not, this needs to be done real soon, unless you enjoy being stranded out in the middle of no-where. Steam spewing from under the hood is not a happy sight. Many hose problems are caused by high heat temperatures under the vehicle's hood. How can this be prevented?

All automotive hoses should be checked at least once every six months to be certain that they are operating properly. The best rule is to replace coolant hoses whenever you change the coolant/anti-freeze. (What? I need to change the coolant?) Yes, this should be done roughly every two years. This includes changing the heater hoses. Now, let's check out the hoses.

First, let's check both the upper and lower radiator hoses for cracks (which is characteristic of either heat or ozone damage). Cracks in the cover of the hose are not always considered heat damage. If the hose has cracks, but is still soft and not hardened, the problem could be due to ozone, found in heavy air pollution areas.

Next, the worst enemy of automotive hose is oil. This can come from the engine, power steering, brake system or various lubrication lines. Any of these fluids will cause the hose to swell and become soft and gooey. Some hoses could even have bubbles or bulges.

Another source of hose damage is abrasion, scuffing or gouging. This could be caused by the hose either encountering road debris (rocks, sticks, etc.), rubbing up against a bracket or other metal surface, or belt gouging.

To check coolant hoses, with the engine cool, feel the hoses immediately after starting the engine. The hoses should become pressurized and hot within minutes. If not, there is a problem with the cooling system.

These are all normal maintenance checks that should be done religiously to prevent any damage to your vehicle. It's just like getting a check-up from your doctor. The more you maintain your vehicle, the more it will perform for you.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Happy Motoring! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The Great American Rip-Off

Millions of Americans now days are living from paycheck to paycheck. Many have had to give up health insurance, life insurance, had their homes foreclosed, lost their livelihood, gone into severe debt, or other tragic scenarios. Why? Because of the greed of our politicians, BIG OIL and their investors. Most Americans draw minimum wage or have to survive from tips in the service industry. When the price of fuel continues to climb, something has to be cut from their budgets.

Of course the fat cats in Washington D.C. don't have to worry about that, they're too busy embarking on their five-week vacations. Big oil cats and their investors are too busy to be bothered with such trivial matters as it may interfere with their golf game.

August 1, 2008 - Exxon/Mobil reported second quarter earnings of $11.68 BILLION, the largest profit from operations ever by any U.S. corporation. Revenue rose 40% to $138.1 billion - up from $98.4 billion in the year earlier quarter.

Europe's Royal Dutch Shell reported a 33% jump in second quarter earnings to a mere $11.6 billion.

Record quarters were also reported for Conoco Phillips, Chevron Corporation, BP PLC, and French company Total SA. These six major international oil companies topped over $50 billion in combined profit for the first time ever.

The American Petroleum Institute, the industry's trade association, claimed Big Oil earnings are not out of line compared with earnings in other industrial sectors!
WHAT??
Here's the kicker...Investors expected even bigger profits. Apparently, it doesn't matter if it just happens to bring the nation to it's knees in doing so.

We still have someone in the White House who claims that our country is not in a recession. Of course, being an oil man himself, I guess he can't see the forest for the trees. Recession? No. On the skirts of a Depression? Quite possible. Thanks Big Oil!

Checked Your Battery Lately?

Every day at the parts store, I encounter someone lugging a battery in to be covered under warranty. What you see above are examples of improperly cared for batteries - they have not been maintained. Are these considered to be a defect of the battery? Nope! Apparently the hood of the car hasn't been raised for quite some time. Could these batteries create starting problems? You betcha! These are examples of severe corrosion problems.

A lot of vehicle owners (which includes cars, light & heavy duty trucks and equipment) are under the impression that all batteries are "maintenance free". Even boat owners and garden tractor owners must think that. Unless the battery specifically says "Maintenance Free" or are "Gel" batteries, all others must be checked periodically. Ninety percent of batteries that are brought into the store claiming to be bad have never had the "caps" taken off to check the fluid levels. Once the caps have been taken off at the store, you would almost swear you could hear a coyote howling because the cells are so dry. Some of them are dry enough that one could almost grow cactus inside the battery.

Trouble - shooting

1. Check the fluid (electrolyte) level in the battery. Remove the caps and check for the fluid to be level with the bottom of the filler hole (fluid must cover the plates). If low, fill with distilled water.
2. Check for loose hold-down.
3. Check for cracked cover or case.
4. Check for loose, frayed or broken cables.
5. If there is corrosion on the terminal ends, either use a spray terminal cleaner (following the directions on the can), or use a baking soda paste (3 parts baking soda to 1 part water). This will neutralize the corrosion.
Using a wrench, loosen the nut on the battery terminal bolt (negative cable first - top of battery will be marked with a negative symbol - ) and slowly twist the terminal from the post. (On a side mount battery, remove the bolt from the center of the cable end). Repeat this with the positive (marked with a + symbol). Clean the inside of the terminal end with a battery terminal brush or (soapless) steel wool pad. Use the terminal brush or steel wool to "shine" the battery post or inside of the side mount. Once clean, reinstall the positive cable first and then the negative cable. Do not overtighten the nuts or the bolt.
To prevent corrosion deposits from forming again, coat the terminals with either grease, petroleum jelly, or a battery protector spray. I highly recommend the use of battery corrosion washers also. They are very inexpensive and work amazingly well.
Again, periodically check the electrolyte level in the battery - best done at every oil change and keep the top free of dirt and debris. You'll be surprised at how much longer your battery will last by keeping it well maintained.
Happy Motoring!!

Ordering Auto Parts 101

Ordering Parts Online - Gathering Information

Today, we'll talk about preparing to order auto parts on line and the necessary information needed. The great part of ordering on-line is : You get to do this in the convenience of your own home, no fuel has been used fighting traffic to get to the nearest parts store, you don't have to wait in line, no dealing with amateurs or attitudes, and last but not least - you can take your dear sweet time!

One thing needs to be made perfectly clear at this point. Don't even think about setting down in front of the computer without doing your homework! That means obtaining all of the information needed to make the ordering process go quickly and without any frustration. This should be a pleasant experience, not a hassle.

Now, let's get the information needed to do this. You're probably thinking, "Gator, all I've got to do is get out my owner's manual and I will have all of the information I need." You will be somewhat correct. Your owner's manual will tell you the Make and Model of the vehicle. As far as knowing which Engine or Transmission you have - the manual covers all engines and transmissions for that production model. The manual is extremely useful for trouble-shooting tips and knowing what types of fluids to be used. (For instance: oil, brake, transmission, rear differential and clutch master cylinder, if so equipped, to name a few). Also, it will identify where the fuse panel is located and what type of fuses to use.

Now, let's grab some paper and pen (pencil, marker - whatever) and go pop the hood on the vehicle. If the vehicle has a hood release on the inside, stop and look at the decal located on the driver's door or door post. Most vehicles have a production date located on the decal. It would show the month and year that the vehicle was produced. Jot that down.

Lift the hood and look for a decal either on the valve cover, radiator support or possibly on the underside of the hood. It will show the engine type such as 6.o L or 2.5L for example. Jot that down.

At this point go ahead and write down the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number).

To find out what type of Transmission the vehicle has, the VIN number will be needed to contact either the dealer to identify it.

If you are going to be working on the brakes, you will need to know whether the vehicle has ABS (Anti-Lock Brake System) or not. There may be an ABS logo on the brake pedal, or with the ignition system on accessory (ACC), check for an ABS light on the instrument panel. To be certain, if there is any question, have the VIN number handy and contact the dealer.

I would recommend once you have done your homework, go to your computer, in accessories - open notepad and input all of the information and save it. It will be there when you need it.

Ordering Auto Parts 101

Lesson One

There always seems to be a lot of confusion when it comes to ordering auto parts either on-line (What, I can order parts on-line?) or visiting your neighborhood auto parts store. The main source of confusion stems from the fact that one must, as the Boy Scouts of America say : "Be Prepared". Prepared for what...you may ask? One word. INFORMATION.

A significant amount of counter-people have just graduated from high school after 15 years and their last job was flippin' burgers at the local burger joint.

In this session, we will cover the parts store scenario:

It's late Saturday afternoon. You've just driven 10 - 15 miles (@ $4.00 plus per gallon), piled up a pound of bugs on the windshield, fussed at someone sitting at a green light, talking on the cell-phone, and got cut off in traffic twice. You are really geared up now to answer a birage of questions by the burger flipper.

"I need a starter for my car" you grouse, as you stroll in (empty handed). Somehow, that just doesn't quite cut it, but that's your opening remark. I have yet to see a counter-person break out the crystal ball and come up with the starter for that car (whatever it may be).

You stand there waiting for Ace to go back to the shelf and grab a starter.

He stands there giving you that "deer in the headlight look" and you sense your blood pressure rising.

"A starter...you know for my car...sometime today would be nice", you mutter.
He wipes his nose and asks in that whiney high-pitched voice: "What kind of car, Dude?"

"Ford" you grumble.

"Oh, a Fix Or Repair Daily", is the reply.

So many good comedians out of business and I have to listen to this, is basically written across your forehead.

(Author's note:) By the way, have I mentioned you are standing there, grease dripping from both hands, knuckles bleeding, shirt drenched in a combination of sweat, oil, beer and bug spray? Not to mention the boot-prints of grease and oil you just left on the floor marching up to the counter.

"Uh...what kind of Ford?"

"A Mustang! Now, will you get the starter, Ace?"

"Uh...what year Mustang?"

"I dunno, it's my sister's car...74, 76 or 78...they're all the same!"

(This "all the same" information has come from your construction buddy Steve, sitting out in the truck, who at this very moment is draining the last of the six-pack, purchased on the way to the parts store. His vast knowledge of auto repair encompasses replacing the fan belt on the construction site concrete mixer).

"Uh...does it have an engine?"

"Well, duh! Why else would I be here tryin' to get a starter?"

"Uh...what size engine?"

"I dunno, 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder...they're all the same!"

"Uh...I need to know which one and what type of transmission does it have?"

(Author's Note: Are you starting to get the picture here?) After finally supplying the necessary information (like pulling hen's teeth) you have just discovered several things. You weren't truly prepared. Your wallet is laying on the counter where you purchased the six-pack, you didn't bring the old starter which now amounts to more money, this could have been handled with a phone call and best of all, Ace says the starter is on back-order and won't have it in the store until Monday afternoon.